Highweald Estate: Wines of Outstanding Natural Beauty

Thursday, 13 June 2024 08:00

By Robert Veitch

One of the wonders of Sussex is the capacity to create food and drink of outstanding quality and Highweald Wine is one such example, producing English Sparking Wines of exceptional standard – Robert Veitch went to find out more, and enjoy a glass or two

Nestled in the pristine medieval landscape of the High Weald, among West Sussex’s rolling, wooded hills, lies Highweald Wine, one of England’s finest sparkling wine estates. It was there that I met my amiable host, Winemaker and Managing Director Robin Langton. His enthusiasm for English Sparkling Wine is infectious and it wasn’t long before I was learning more about this fascinating place, with a glass of sparkling wine in hand.

Their award-winning wines are made with skill and care from vines grow on the area’s ancient clay and sandstone soils. Soils that have been prized for generations for their ability to sustain farmland and wildlife, and which now provide the perfect place to create opulent wines that are satisfyingly complex and easy to enjoy.

“This is an old medieval landscape – it’s wonderful land,” said Robin.“These were arable fields until 2014, now they’ve produced an International Wine Challenge (IWC) Trophy winner. It’s a pleasure to farm here.”

This landscape is so special that it’s been awarded the protected status of ‘Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty’ (AONB), and Robin and his team go to great lengths to act as custodians of these unique surroundings. There are bat boxes, bird boxes and beehives; sheep graze the vineyards in
the autumn. There are 2 metre wide strips around the periphery of the fields planted with native seeds. “Monoculture is the past, we’re moving forward as part of the natural ecosystem, which we’re keen to propagate,” Robin told me.

Robin grew up in Sussex before spending 20 years making wine in California, France, Australia and New Zealand. Now he’s back and is excited to be making wines on his home turf, which he describes as some of the most exciting winemaking terroir in the world. He told me, “Thoughtfulness, location and quality are key to what we create. We have a young forward-thinking team, with domestic and international experience. These are exciting times for English wine, because of the progression in quality over recent years, and as an industry, we should strive to produce the best wines we can.”

And they are doing well. Despite their relative youth (the first wine was released in 2020), they appear in some of England’s most prestigious addresses, including The Dorchester and Berkley hotels, The Ivy, The Gore, and Hawksmoor. Highweald make their wine in the traditional way, with no shortcuts or quick fixes. “We aim to produce the best English Sparkling Wine. We are not trying to be Champagne,” revealed Robin. “We’re a luxury product, the pinnacle of English wine.”

In fact, sparkling wine is not even a French invention, it’s English. In the 17th century it was Christopher Merret who first documented the deliberate addition of sugar during a second fermentation to produce sparkling wine. The process was made all the easier because the English could produce glass bottles of sufficient strength so they wouldn’t explode.

Robin led the way to the Garden Bar, which opened in 2023 and overlooks the vineyard. The impressive grounds were designed by the renowned Brighton based landscaper and garden designer, Andy Sturgeon. Visitors are encouraged down the inviting curves of the gravel path, through sculpted beech saplings and planting, that leads onto the decking laid out with enticing tables, chairs and parasols. The adjacent pavilion provides seating around oak tables for those days when the weather is being typically unpredictable.

Vineyard tours and tastings are twice daily, Saturday to Sunday. They take one and a half to two hours and end at the Garden Bar with a tasting of their flagship sparkling wines, the NV Brut and NV Rosé, accompanied by a generous selection of local charcuterie, cheese and bread. The tour is an excellent route into English Sparkling Wine, and a lovely way to spend half a day during the summer. Leigh Quigley, the Hospitality Manager, told me, “Come along, take the tour and try the wine, you’ll be glad you came.” The Garden Bar is also available for venue hire, and there’s a Michelin starred chef available, to help make the occasion even more special.

As Robin popped the cork on the NV Brut and filled our glasses, the fine, voluminous mousse slowly settled in the flute. Light straw in colour it’s opulent on the nose, with a nod to spice and fresh toast. Gentle, persistent bubbles proliferate in the most delightful way leading to a generous, lingering finish. When awarding this wine with three trophies, the IWC judges commented, “This non-vintage blend captures the essence of English Sparkling Wine. It has a citrus lemon-flower nose with saline citrus fruit. It threatens to bite your palate but then softens and deepens into a fine finish.”

Like the NV Brut, the NV Rosé, is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – the classic grape varietals of Champagne. Like its sibling, it has a fine, persistent mousse, with an enticing vibrancy about its blushing pink hue. A nose of summer berries hints at what is to come, being easy on the palate with hints of red apples, sour cherry and stone fruits. It’s a wine to enjoy for every occasion.

As we rounded off our afternoon, Robin added, “We’re really pleased with where we are right now, although we don’t sit and enjoy our wines often enough ourselves. These are wines for a special occasion, an affordable luxury. We’ve created something to elevate life’s special moments.”

Highweald is an oasis, a relaxed atmosphere, an enjoyable experience, superb wines, and beneath blue skies on summer’s day it was a wrench to leave.

Highweald Wine

Deaks Lane, Ansty, RH17 5JBP

01444 417206

www.highwealdwine.com

info@highwealdwine.com

Highweald Estate: Wines of Outstanding Natural Beauty

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